Nathan Giglierano

15 posts

Repair Price Estimates

Listed below are a set of price estimates for common repairs from Gig Violins LLC in Madison, Wisconsin (note: prices for repairs vary by region, mostly due to cost of living considerations).

These are merely guidelines because the needs of every instrument are slightly different. We have listed these here to make the process more transparent and less intimidating for our customers. Please contact Gig Violins to talk about your instrument’s specific needs.

RepairCost (Violin/Viola)Cost (Cello)
Seasonal Instrument Check-up 1$30$30
New Bridge (Professional) 2 $250+$350+
New Bridge (Standard) 3 $140$205
New Bridge (Student) 4 $90$125
New Soundpost$70$90
New Pegs (traditional) 5 $120 + cost of pegs$200 + cost of pegs
New Pegs (mechanical) 6 $160$280
Replace Tailpiece$30$50
Change Strings$10
(Free if purchased from Gig Violins)
Glue Seams 7 $15$15
Set Fallen Soundpost$15$15
Soundpost/Tonal Adjustment$15-60$15-60
Clean/Polish$30-$90 $60-$130
Fingerboard Dressing$70-$120$110-$150
Crack Repair (small, not requiring top removal)$50-200Variable
Crack Repair (large, requiring top to be removed)$500+Variable
Bow Rehair$80Cello $80, Bass $90-$100
Bow Tip Replacement (Tip Armour) 8 $180Cello $200, Bass $230
Thumb Grip Replacement$40$40

Location

Luthier Nathan Giglierano runs Gig Violins LLC out of his home-workshop on North Gammon Rd. To protect his privacy, the exact address is not listed on this page but will be shared when making an appointment to visit. The map below gives a general indication of the location. Nathan’s workshop is a very short walk from a bus stop.

Making a Baroque Violin (part 2/2) – The Setup

In part one of the article, I discussed the differences in construction between a baroque and modern violin. In part two I will discuss the setup of the instrument, including the tailpiece, tailgut, bridge, and strings.

The shape and design of the baroque tailpiece varied from maker to maker, sometimes simple and sometimes very intricately inlaid. The main difference between the baroque and modern tailpiece is the way that the tailgut is attached. On the modern tailpiece, the holes are hidden, running lengthwise through the material. On a baroque tailpiece, the holes are visible, running through the top.

For my instrument’s tailpiece, I chose to recycle an old fingerboard from a 150-year-old violin that was too worn down to be used anymore.

The tailgut on baroque instruments was made from gut, as opposed to nylon which is now standard on modern instruments. In order to secure the tailgut to the tailpiece, I used a fisherman’s knot. The Stradivari Stitch was another common method for attaching the tailpiece.

Fisherman’s knot, secured by a dot of glue.

If you are interested in purchasing a baroque style tailpiece, I now make them for violin and viola from flamed maple:

The baroque bridge also came in a variety of shapes and sizes. I chose a model similar to the one used on the “Tuscan” Stradivari viola. In the picture below are a number of Antonio Stradivari’s templates housed in the Museo del Violino in Cremona.

Various templates for fingerboards, tailpieces, bridges, scrolls, and f holes.

Finally, I chose to string the instrument with Gamut gut strings. Learn more about them here.

Here’s the final setup of the violin.

This violin is no longer for sale, but to see this violin’s twin, click here.

Shop our baroque selection

Making a Baroque Violin (part 1/2)

For my next project, I will be making a baroque violin. What exactly does that mean?

As instruments evolved through the centuries, various modifications became standard practice. As concert halls grew, so did the need for instruments that could play louder and be heard over large ensembles. The culmination of these changes is what we consider the “modern” violin. When we talk about baroque violins or violins with baroque or period setup, what we really mean is instruments with their original setup, before these modifications. By our standards, every instrument made by the Stradivari, Amati, and Guarneri families was “baroque” when it left the shop.

Why would we want to abandon these modifications? In time I will write a full post about this topic since this is beyond the scope of this article, but for now I will just say this: the modifications that made instruments louder also made them less natural to play in the rhetorical style of the Baroque, removing a layer of subtlety from the music in favor of projection. Much of this subtlety can be regained by using gut strings and a period bow (check out ours here!), but many musicians feel that having an instrument that is fully in period setup gives the optimal experience.

As I am building this instrument, the first difference I come across is the way that the neck is attached to the body. While later necks are morticed into the body, instruments made in the 17th century were attached to the neck with a nail (or later a screw). The neck attaches directly to the outside of the rib garland.

Neck clamped in place on the ribs to check fit.
The ribs are removed from the mold and the neck is attached with glue and nails.

The next change is the bass bar. There is some debate as to the “typical” dimensions of bass bars on baroque instruments. Conventional wisdom says that baroque bass bars were significantly smaller than modern ones, though there are exceptions and historical examples of bass bars that are larger or the same as their modern counterparts. I decided to go a little shorter, and with a little less mass than I would typically for a modern instrument, though the change is subtle.

Baroque bass bar
Modern bass bar

The final change to the body of the instrument is the fingerboard. Because the neck is set at a shallower angle to the body, the fingerboard must be elevated by a wedge. This means that there is a large change in the thickness of the neck as the player shifts to higher positions. For the top surface of the wedge, I’m recycling an old fingerboard that was too worn down to be used on a modern instrument. Maple was sometimes used as a top surface for fingerboards (often with intricate inlay patterns) but ebony is more durable and won’t wear as quickly. Maple is used for the sides of the wedge and spruce fills the inside to reduce the overall weight.

Baroque style fingerboard wedge.
Final result with the fingerboard attached to the instrument. Note the angle of the neck to the body, which is shallower on the baroque violin.

In the second part of this article, I discuss the aspects of the setup including the bridge, tailpiece, and strings. For a discussion of the baroque bow and why to use one, check out this article from a colleague https://adbowsllc.com/2020/08/02/a-case-for-the-baroque-bow-a-specialists-perspective/

Designing a new Small Viola

The first two violas I made were on the larger side, large enough that it was a bit challenging finding a case that would safely fit them (though I have now found a few good options, luckily!). They both sound fantastic, but are certainly designed for taller players. I’ve decided that my next challenge will be making a smaller viola for players looking for an instrument of a more manageable size.

For this instrument, I decided to design my own pattern using Kevin Kelly’s ”four circles” method, a tool for drawing outlines using geometric principles. The design I came up with is similar to the Conte Vitale Andrea Guarneri viola, though my design is recognizably different enough that I feel comfortable calling it my own.

My design for my small viola pattern.
A few of my drafts (there were nine or so). The Andrea Guarneri viola I analyzed is up in the top left.
New mold from my design.
Using Italian spruce from the Val di Fiemme (where Stradivari ostensibly got his spruce) and European maple (from Slovakia, I believe).
Working on another Kreisler model at the same time as the new viola. Viola on the left, Guarneri violin on the right. Plates jointed and glued together.
Basic outlines are done for these instruments, in addition to the ribs.

New Viola – part 6 (varnish, set-up)

The final varnishing and set-up of the viola is now complete! Check the pictures below for some snapshots along the way.

After the first layer of ground (varnish)
Backside view of first layer.
After all the ground layers have been added.
Inside the drying UV chamber.
Varnishing is done, and many days of drying have slowly passed. Now it’s time for set-up! These are all the parts that need to be added to make it a playing viola.
Now for the glamour shots.
Beautiful flame.

New Viola – part 5 (closing the box, fitting the neck)

This week, it’s time to finish the viola “in the white” or do everything before the varnish is applied.

The linings, which are 2mm think strips of spruce are glued to the inside of the ribs. This gives more surface area when gluing the plates to the ribs.
Gluing the back to the ribs.
The mould had now been removed, and I’m gluing the linings to the face-side of the ribs.
Fitting the bass bar perfectly to the top takes hours of work. The fit has to be precise or else any number of issues may arise.
Gluing the box shut. This always feels like a big step being accomplished.
Taking a quick victory lap.
The neck has been morticed into the box.
The neck needs to be carved into a playable shape. This step is very important, since the neck is the main point of contact between player and instrument.
Neck rounded.
Just a bit of fun- Gillian’s viola on the left, the new viola on the right.

View the next article here: New Viola – part 6 (varnish, set-up)